[Sacred Succulents] Andean Venture this May

benkamm at monitor.net benkamm at monitor.net
Mon Mar 31 17:23:22 PDT 2014


Greetings,
This May we are returning to Andean Peru after a several year hiatus 
dedicated to propagating our family. 
Originally we had not planned on opening this trip to public attendance as 
we already had a full group of friends and colleagues joining us. However 
some last minute changes means that there is the possibility for 1-2 more 
people to join this venture. Read below for full information. If you are 
interested in attending I will need to get an email response as soon as 
possible- we'll then send an application form that will need to be filled 
out and emailed back right away.
I look forward to hearing from you!

Ben
________

Come join us! For 12 days this May 6-18 a small group of us will walk the 
land and explore the ecology, culture and archaeology of the Andes of 
south central Peru, a region of rugged mountains, pastoral landscapes and 
mysterious ruins. 

Immerse yourself in a vibrant ecological tapestry woven by the reciprocal 
relations of distinct flora and fauna, stunning geography, and traditional 
cultures whose roots reach far into the past drawing essential nutrients 
from their ancient traditions. 

Take advantage of this unique opportunity to learn the basics of the 
dynamic science of ethnobotany, conservation based botanical studies, 
traditional agriculture, indigenous Andean spirituality and cross cultural 
shamanism. Examine some of the most alluring and misunderstood 
archaeological sites in the world, and consider how the triumphs and 
faults of past cultures reflect our modern dilemma of how to live on this 
wondrous planet we all call home.

We?ll be spending our first few days in heart of Cusco. The core of the 
trip will be a 6 day trek to study the flora of the remote, cloud forest 
enshrouded, archaeological site of Choquequirao perched high above the 
Apurimac watershed. The trek will be guided by renowned archaeologist Gary 
Ziegler and his team. See below for more info.

The cost is $3050 per person. This includes ground costs- the entire trek 
(camping gear, guides, meals, and pack mules), and for the rest of the 
time- all lodging, ground transport, entrance fee to archaeological sites, 
a good portion of meals, and helps reciprocate a few local experts for 
their time sharing with us. Airfare is not included.

Please note: Space for this venture is already nearly full. There is 
currently a place for 1-2 more attendees, so please let me know right away 
if there is any possibility of you being part of this unique venture!

Choquequirao:
Quechua for ?cradle of gold?, a sort of sister site to Machu Picchu, 
abandoned for centuries, overlooked by the Spanish chroniclers and seldom 
seen by tourists, this Inca ?lost city? is a citadel nestled in cloud 
forest at 10,000' on a spur of the glacial Salkantay mountain range. An 
impressive 5000' above the Apurimac river (the farthest source of the 
Amazon), the ruins are over 20 acres with complex hydraulic systems, 
ritual fountains and agricultural terracing. It was united and in 
communication with Machu Picchu by a complex network of trails. Studies 
suggest it was a religious pilgrimage site, ceremonial retreat for Topa 
Inca, and agricultural center for coca production. Unique in that it is 
believed to have been constructed by Chachapoyas stone masons that the 
Inca imported from northern Peru. Today only a portion of the ruins have 
been cleared, new archaeological discoveries are made regularly.
The site is still very remote and currently only accessible to those 
intrepid enough to undertake the adventurous trek to get there. It will be 
opened to the tourist masses is 2015 when they construct a tram to the 
ruins, so this is sort of a last chance to see it untrammeled. Visiting 
requires a 4 hour drive from the city of Cusco then an overnight trek 
through an amazing variety of habitats, a descent of nearly 4000' and an 
ascent of 5000' to reach the site. Guiding our trek and sharing his 
immense knowledge is Gary Ziegler who has done many of the archaeological 
studies of Choquequirao. Gary is one of the world?s authorities on Incan 
archaeology and astronomy. Working in Peru since the late 60s, he has 
discovered and rediscovered many ruins in the greater area. Camping 
equipment, meals and mules for carrying supplies will be provided. All you 
need carry is a day pack.
One of the reasons we?re interested in Choquequirao is to do a cursory 
floristic inventory of the surrounding forest during the 2 days we?ll be 
at the site. Being that the location was unknown to the Spanish and only a 
portion of the ruins excavated means the surrounding forest is mostly 
intact and provides the opportunity to assess, what, if any, may be 
relictual Incan forest or ?escaped? cultivars. We know the Inca had a 
whole priest class, the Mallki-camayoc, dedicated to agroforestry and were 
actively planting forests before the Spanish cataclysm. The first thing 
that is done at most archaeological sites is vegetation removal without 
considering its historical and cultural value. Undoubtedly after the tram 
arrives in 2015 more of the forest will be removed... This presents a very 
unique and exciting opportunity to learn about the site through studied 
eyes and contribute a little to the greater knowledge. 

Itinerary-
May 6 - arrive in Cusco in the morning, get picked up by our bus/driver 
and transfer to the lower elevation town of Ollantaytambo to acclimate. 
The town of Ollantaytambo and the adjacent archaeological site lies at 
9,250' in the Urubamba Valley. The ruins with their massive terraces are 
said by some to be laid out against the moutainside in the profile of a 
llama. Once the royal estate of the Inca Pachacutec, this was the last 
place of Incan resistance to the Spanish in the rebellion of 1536, before 
their flight to their final stronghold of Vilcabamba. The village of 
Ollantaytambo retains its original Incan layout of narrow cobblestone 
streets with their intact irrigation systems still nourishing the town. We 
can explore the ruins, including strange ceremonial-astronomical carvings, 
impressive irrigation systems and ?royal? baths all which are expressive 
of the Andean cosmo-vision. We can observe the surrounding agriculture and 
see how the living descendants of the Incan people subsist today. 

May 7- Depart Ollantaytambo in late morning with our personal bus and 
driver. Meandering drive through the Sacred Valley. Detour to one of the 
Andean Polylepis forest remnants high above the Valley. An Andean genus of 
26 species in the rose family, Polylepis forests once covered over 20% of 
the Andes up to 17,000'+ in elevation. These forest were slowly cleared 
over millennia and massacred over the last 500 years, now reduced to 
almost nothing. Polylepis are amongst the most enchanting trees we have 
encountered, with their contorted trunks and peeling bark, not to mention 
their rebellious nature; this is a tree that actually dares to grow above 
the treeline. Considered one of the most important genera of plants for 
cultural development in the prehispanic Andean highlands. Extremely hard 
wood excellent for construction, tools, ceremonial objects and firewood, 
used medicinally for lung issues. Polylepis were considered sacred during 
Incan times, associated with the ancestors, forests were venerated, 
protected and actively planted. These trees are fog combs, generating 
fertile watersheds where they occur. Polylepis forests are known to harbor 
the highest diversity of flora and fauna of any ecosystem in the high 
Andes. 
We arrive in Pisac by evening. 

May 8 - The colonial town of Pisac at 9,750'; is nestled in the Sacred 
Valley at the base of the mountains next to the Urubamba River and site of 
the largest pre-Columbian canal. Pisac is famous for its outdoor market; 
an amalgam of mass produced tourist fare and high quality crafts and 
antiques- weavings, ceremonial items (both real and forgeries): 
meteorites, fossils, pottery, khuya stones, Incan maces, colonial keys, 
etc. along with a fantastic diversity of vegetables and fruit. On the 
steep ridge rising above the town is a majestic Incan citadel at over 
11,000', believed by some to be laid out against the mountainside in the 
shape of a condor. The ruins display some of the very finest Incan 
agricultural terracing, superb stonework, ancient shrines and astronomical 
observatory with fantastic views of the valley. We hope to also visit to 
the nearby Parque de la Papa- a farming co-op and potato research center. 

May 9 - Get picked up by our bus and drive through painted agricultural 
hills to the Incan/colonial town of Chinchero at 12,400', said to be the 
birthplace of K?uychi; the rainbow. We can visit our Quechua friend 
Grimalda Quispe and her family, master weavers from whom we can learn 
about their dye plants, weaving techniques, medicinal plant knowledge and 
agricultural practices. We can examine the nearby Incan site including a 
very impressive ?huaca? - a ?living? shrine of amazingly carved stone. An 
oppressively beautiful old Catholic church crowns the town. Drive to Cusco 
in the evening. 

May 10 - Cusco. We?ll be staying near the ancient ceremonial center of the 
Incan part of the city. In the afternoon we?ll meet up with archaeologist 
Gary Ziegler to get a detailed tour of the awe inspiring ruins of 
Sacsaywaman overlooking the city. For those who believe the city was laid 
out in the shape of a puma, this is the head. Once an elaborate ceremonial 
center, it was destroyed by the Spanish after an Incan revolt in 1536. Up 
until the 1930s it served as a pre-cut rock quarry for the city, so now 
all that remains is the unbelievably massive stones, still masterfully fit 
together. The surrounding hills house many other Incan sites - Q?enqo, a 
huge intricately carved stone ?huaca? with ceremonial cave, Puca Pucara; a 
tambo with superb views of Cusco valley, and Tambomachay; an elegant water 
shrine with cascading fountains channeled through fine stone work. We will 
make a short hike along ancient irrigation canals to seldom visited sacred 
caves and ruins. This site includes a small Polylepis microphylla forest 
that is thought to have been planted by the Inca, it?s a species that only 
occurs wild in 2 disparate locales in Peru and on the slopes of Volcan 
Chimborazo in Ecuador. 

May 11 - Depart Cusco in the AM with archaeologist Gary Ziegler and team 
to travel to our trek departure. Morning stop and narrated hiking tour of 
the ceremonial site of Quillarumiyoc- nestled in a lush watershed fed by 
snowmelt, this is one of the most beautiful of the relatively unknown 
pre-Columbian ruins of the region. From here another couple hours of 
driving brings us to Sahuite- another ceremonial site that features 
several unique ?huacas?, one being a stone covered in carvings of pumas, 
frogs, llamas and other animals, a rare example of figurative images in 
Incan carving. This is also believed to be the the location of an 
Anadenanthera inspired oracle. A short distance from here is Cachora where 
we lodge in a small inn for night. 

May 12 - Depart on our trek in the morning. We have our first view of the 
immense Apurimac drainage far below. This deep canyon and it?s powerful 
river is one of the great geographic wonders of the Americas. The 
Apurimac, which means ? voice of the mountain? in Quechua, thunders 
hundreds of miles through the remotest part of the Andes to eventually, 
along with a multitude of sister rivers, become the Amazon. We follow a 
seemingly endless winding trail down some 3000' through diverse terrain. 
After lunch we cross a bridge to the other side of the river and climb 
about fifteen hundred feet to our camp. We are traveling by foot with 
accompanying mule pack train (estimated 5-6 hours of hiking and a stop for 
lunch)

May 13 - 3000'+ ascent to Choquequirao passing through many distinct 
ecologies. By late afternoon we reach a spectacular camp site among 
massive stone constructions and cloud forest near the imposing walls of 
the ancient ceremonial city. (estimated 5-6 hours of hiking and a stop for 
lunch).

May 14 -  All day to explore Choquequirao with Gary and his team. We?ll 
make biological observations and compile notes. That evening we?ll share a 
Andean traditional feast, Pachamanca- various tubers, lamb and spices 
cooked in an earthen pit.

May 15 - Leisurely morning at the site then begin our reluctant departure, 
we descend a winding steep trail some 4500" down to the Apurimac River. 
Crossing over the newly rebuilt bridge above the raging rapids, we climb 
1500 feet up to our camp at Chiquisca.

May 16 - Completing the trek out to the road head, sadly bidding mules, 
cooks and wranglers goodbye. We toast our staff and the successful 
completion of trek We bus back to Cusco. 

May 17 - Our final day in Cusco. At our leisure we can walk the streets 
and see underlying Inca foundations. We may visit the ceremonial center of 
the Incan world, the masterfully built Qoricancha, believed to be 
destroyed during the conquest until a massive earthquake in the 1950s 
revealed it to be hidden within a Dominican monastery. This temple and 
astronomical observatory once housed life sized gold and silver sculptures 
of exquisite gardens replete with fauna down to small insects and peopled 
with radiant men, women and children. Tragically, such delicate wonders 
now only exist in our collective dreams, all was melted down at the 
caustic time of the Spanish conquest. The Qoricancha was also the hub of 
the Incan ceque system, similar to ley line theory, from which numerous 
lines, or ceques, radiated out, mirrored in the physical landscape by 
Incan roads and shrines. Here Matt can show us traditional techniques to 
work with the geomagnetic energy of the land. There?s also opportunity to 
visit several traditional markets, gawk at baroque Catholic churches with 
hybrid paintings of Catholic and Andean mythos, museums of pre-Columbian 
art, and explore a diversity of gustatory possibilities including coca ice 
cream and the famous cuyerias- like a pizzeria, only with baked guinea pig 
(cuy) as the specialty. Yes cuy, the pet you can eat!
Farewell dinner together.

Day 18 - Depart Cusco in the AM.

The following are areas of our collective knowledge, interests and 
expertise. During our time together, and to be determined by the interest 
levels of the group, we can have ongoing discussions and presentations on 
the following topics:
Andean archaeology and cultures through time with an eye towards how the 
triumphs and faults of past cultures reflect our modern dilemma of how to 
live on this wondrous planet we all call home. This is a region with a 
staggeringly rich history, with diverse human cultures that seem 
peculiarly alien yet hauntingly familiar. Ancient yet advanced 
technologies that include intricate textiles that express cultural 
narratives to the finest stonework the world has seen. The massive 
terraforming efforts of past cultures mean that entire mountains and 
valleys are vast archaeological/cultural sites that reflect a dynamic and 
complex, highly attentive relationship with the ecology of the region that 
survives in a more subdued manner amongst the Quechua people of today. 
An introduction to ethnobiology and ethnobotany including history and it?s 
potential for conserving and revitalizing biocultural diversity. Basic 
plant & seed collecting and cleaning, identification, documentation and 
mapping, and the politics of collecting. The myriad conservation issues we 
face during this time of habitat loss, climatic change, and mass 
extinction.
Traditional agriculture systems of the Andes, both ancient and current. 
How the pre-Columbian diet was forged by the Andean environment and yet 
came to change that very environment through increasing agricultural 
diversification that included agroforestry, terracing mountainsides and 
harnessing water through amazing hydraulic systems. Identification, 
history, and cultivation of the many ?lost crops of the Inca?s? which 
we?ll encounter during our travels. Integrating traditional agriculture 
knowledge into your own sustainable gardening and farming methods.
Medicinal plants of the Andes, including what we know of pre-Columbian 
medicine and how that changed through the cultural collision with the 
Spanish and modern medicine today. The increasing interest and adoption of 
Andean medicinal plants by Western Herbalism today.
The medicinal, cultural and spiritual importance of coca leaf (
Erythroxylum coca). This is by far the most important plant of ancient and 
contemporary Andean people, yet it is largely misunderstood and maligned 
by the rest of the world. Coca provides important nutritional needs, 
acclimatization to altitude, and is integral to the cycles of reciprocity 
in the Andean worldview, it?s immense spiritual and cosmological import 
within the religious systems of the Andean peoples can not be understated. 
We?ll have the opportunity to sample different varieties of leaves and 
llipta- the vegetable and mineral ash that is chewed with the leaves to 
activate the medicine and nutrition of the plant. Through both didactic 
and experiential formats, we will learn the beauty of of the daily rituals 
of reciprocity and explore the use of coca in a magico-religious sense 
first by demystifying the cultural and linguistic barriers, and diving 
into the heart of coca culture; coca as a ritual offering, coca as a 
carrier of shamanic teachings through apprenticeship, and its use as a 
conduit for divinatory guidance through a process known as Qatipay (in 
Quechua) or Rastreo (in Spanish). Contemporary issues surrounding the 
cultivation and the perplexing politics of this marvelous plant will also 
be offered.
Indigenous Andean spirituality and cross cultural shamanism and how this 
weaves and informs all of the various topics together. Traditional 
methodologies for connecting and working with the sacred landscape of the 
Andes. The influence of Spanish Catholicism on the pre-Columbian cosmology 
and its contemporary expression through the ritual arts. There will be the 
opportunity to begin to actively learn the Andean cosmology and the use of 
the mesa (curandero?s altar) in personal and ceremonial practice, and 
participate as a group in brief ceremony that shows how this information 
and the tools of the mesa can be used in ritual with direct application to 
our modern lives.
Our Guides:
Ben Kamm ? Director of Botanical Preservation Corps and Sacred Succulents 
nursery and seed bank. Ethnobotanical researcher and student of the 
herbalist traditions of the world. A conservation horticulturalist working 
with ecologically innovative methods of propagation and seed germination 
of rare beneficial plants. Ben is dedicated to the preservation and 
dissemination of traditional and contemporary plant knowledge as well as 
the plants themselves. One of his many hobbies over the years is keeping 
abreast of Andean ecological, archaeological and cultural studies. 

Matthew Magee ? Teacher of cross-cultural shamanism and indigenous 
spirituality. Author of Peruvian Shamanism: The Pachakuti Mesa. His work 
has been covered by organizations such as National Geographic and National 
Public Radio (NPR). Despite several college degrees, Matthew?s true 
education was derived from 11 years apprenticeship in the curandero 
traditions of Peru and 2 years spent living with the Mi?kmaq peoples in 
New Brunswick, Canada. 

Neil Logan ? Ethnobotanist and Living Systems Designer. Neil is the 
developer of the Bioregional Ethnoecology Database and a consultant for 
Integrated Living Systems Design, LLC. Trained in ethnobotany, 
horticulture, agroforestry and permaculture design; Neil offers insights 
into ancient agricultural systems, wild and cultivated species assemblages 
of human utility as well as modern sustainable systems.

(For the Choquequirao Trek) Gary Ziegler- Explorer and archaeologist. One 
of the leading experts on Choquequirao, and one of the world authorities 
on Incan archaeology and astronomy. Working in Peru since the late 1960s, 
he has discovered and rediscovered many ruins in the greater area. 

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